As soon as I arrived at the Yaqui community the Mexican storekeeper told me that he had rented a record player and twenty records from an outfit in San Juan de Raicedo for the fiesta he was planning to give that night in honour of the Virgin of Guadalupe. He’d already told everybody that he’d made all the necessary arrangements through Julio, the traveling salesman who came to the Yaqui settlement twice a month to collect instalments on a layaway plan for cheap articles of clothing, which he had succeeded in selling to some Yaqui Indians.
Julio brought the record player in the early afternoon, and hooked it up to the dynamo that provided electricity for the store. He made sure that it worked, then he turned up the volume to its maximum, reminded the storekeeper not to touch any knobs, and began to sort the twenty records.
– I know how many scratches each of them has
Julio said to the storekeeper
– Tell that to my daughter!
the storekeeper replied
– You’re responsible, not your daughter
– Well just the same, she’s the one who’ll be changing the records
Julio insisted that it didn’t matter to him whether she or anyone else was going to handle the record player, as long as the storekeeper paid for any records that were damaged. The storekeeper began to argue with Julio. Julio’s face became red; he turned from to time to the large group of Yaqui Indians congregated in front of the store, and made signs of despair or frustration by moving his hands or contorting his face in a grimace. Seemingly as a last resort, he demanded a cash deposit.
That precipitated another long argument about what constituted ‘a damaged record’. Julio stated with authority that any broken record must be paid for in full, as if it were new. The storekeeper became angrier and began to pull out his extension cords. He seemed bent on unhooking the record player and cancelling the party. He made it clear to his clients congregated in front of the store that he had tried his best to come to terms with Julio.
For a moment, it seemed that the party was going to fail before it had started.
Blas, the old Yaqui Indian in whose house I was staying made some derogatory comments in a loud voice about the Yaqui’s sad state of affairs, that they couldn’t even celebrate their most revered religious festivity, the day of the Virgin of Guadalupe.
I wanted to intervene and offer my help, but Blas stopped me. He said that if I were to make the cash deposit, the storekeeper himself would smash the records.
– He’s worse than anybody
he said
– Let him pay the deposit; he bleeds us so why shouldn’t he pay?
After a long discussion in which, oddly enough, everyone present was in favour of Julio, the storekeeper hit upon terms which were mutually agreeable.
He didn’t pay a cash deposit, but accepted responsibility for the records and the record player.
Julio’s motorcycle left a trail of dust as he headed for some of the more remote houses in the locality. Blas said that he was trying to get to his customers before they came to the store and spent all their money buying booze; as he was saying this, a group of Indians emerged from behind the store, Blas looked at them and began to laugh, and so did everyone else there. Blas told me that those Indians were Julio’s customers, and had been hiding behind the store, waiting for him to leave.
The party began early. The storekeeper’s daughter put a record on the turntable, and brought the arm down. There was a terrible high screech and a loud buzz, and then the blasting sound of trumpets and some guitars.
The party consisted of playing the records at full volume. There were four young Mexican men who danced with the storekeeper's two daughters and three other Mexican women. The Yaquis didn’t dance. They watched with apparent delight at every movement the dancers made. They seemed to be enjoying themselves, just watching and gulping down cheap tequila.
I bought individual drinks for everybody I knew. I wanted to avoid any feelings of resentment. I circulated among the numerous Indians and talked to them and then offered them drinks.
My pattern of behaviour worked, until they realised that I wasn’t drinking, at all. That seemed to annoy everyone at once. It was as if collectively they had discovered that I didn’t belong there. The Indians became very gruff, and gave me sly looks. The Mexicans, who were as drunk as the Indians, also realised at the same time that I hadn’t danced, and that appeared to offend them even more.
They became very aggressive. One of them forcibly took me by the arm and dragged me closer to the record player. Another served me a full cup of tequila and wanted me to drink it all in one gulp, to prove that I was a macho. I tried to stall them, and laughed idiotically as if I were actually enjoying the situation.
I said that I would like to dance first and then drink. One of the young men called out the name of a song. The girl in charge of the record player began to search in the pile of records. She seemed to be a little tipsy – although none of the women had openly been drinking – and had trouble fitting the record on the turntable. The young man said that the record she had selected wasn’t a twist.
She fumbled with the pile, trying to find a suitable one, and everyone closed in around her and left me.
That gave me time to run behind the store, away from the lighted area, and out of sight.
I stood about thirty yards away, in the darkness behind some bushes, trying to decide what to do.
I was tired; I thought that it was time to get in my car and go back home. I began to walk to Blas’s house, where my car was parked. I figured that if I drove slowly, no one would notice that I was leaving. The people around the record player were apparently still looking for the record: all I could hear was the high-pitched buzzing of the loudspeaker, but then came the blasting sound of a twist. I laughed out loud, thinking that they’d probably turned to where I’d been, but I’d disappeared.
I saw some dark silhouettes of people walking in the opposite direction, going towards the store. We passed each other and they mumbled buenas noches. I recognised them and spoke to them, and told them it was a great party. Before I came to a sharp bend in the road, I encountered two other people who I didn’t recognise but I greeted them anyway. The blasting of the record player was almost as loud there as it was in front of the store. It was a dark starless night, but the glare from the store lights allowed me to have a fairly good visual perception of my surroundings.
Blas’s house was very near, and I accelerated my pace. I noticed then the dark shape of a person, sitting, or perhaps squatting, to my left at the bend on the road. I thought for an instant that it might be one of the people from the party who had left before I had. The person seemed to be defecating on the side of the road. That seemed odd. People in the community went into the thick bushes to perform their bodily functions. I thought that whoever it was in front of me must have been drunk. I came to the person at the bend and said buenas noches. The person answered me with an eery inhuman howl. The hair on my body literally stood on end. For a second, I was paralyzed, then I began to walk fast. I took a backward glance and I saw that the dark silhouette had stood up half way. It was a woman. She was stooped over, leaning forward. She walked in that position for a few yards, and then she hopped. I began to run, while the woman hopped by my side like a bird, keeping up with my speed. By the time I’d arrived at Blas’s house she was cutting in front of me and we had almost touched.
I leaped across a ditch at the front of the house and crashed through the front door. Blas was already in the house and seemed unconcerned with my story.
– They pulled a good one on you.
he said
– The Indians take delight in teasing foreigners.
An excerpt from Journey to Ixtlan by Carlos Castaneda